Electric Motorcycle Guide: Everything You Need to Ride

Electric motorcycles are one of the biggest changes we've seen in the biking world in recent years.

Yes, they still have two wheels, handlebars and that same sense of freedom, but the way you think about ownership is completely different.

Instead of thinking about fuel tanks, engine size and servicing in the usual way, you’re suddenly looking at battery health, charging, licence rules, range, insurance, security and whether the bike genuinely fits the riding you do day to day.

So, let’s keep it simple. In this guide, we’re looking at what you need to ride an electric motorcycle in the UK, how the licence rules work, what to know about charging and range, and what I’d be checking before spending my money on one, especially if I was trying to work out whether electric would actually suit my riding.

Let’s get into it!

To ride an electric motorcycle on UK roads, you’ll need the appropriate licence or CBT entitlement, a road-legal bike, valid insurance, vehicle tax, an MOT once it’s three years old and an approved helmet, while ensuring the bike's continuous or rated power output, power-to-weight ratio and licence category match your entitlement, rather than relying on quoted peak power figures or cc equivalents.

For some riders, an electric motorcycle could make perfect sense.

If your riding is mainly commuting, short trips, town riding or local journeys, the simplicity, low noise and easy delivery of power can be a real benefit.

If you enjoy long-distance touring, spontaneous weekend rides or covering hundreds of miles without planning stops, you’ll need to think more carefully about range and charging, as electric is less likely to suit this kind of riding.

Electric motorcycles can be brilliant for the right use, but they’re not automatically the right answer for every rider.

Electric motorbikes, mopeds and scooters undoubtedly split opinion, but if you’ve decided it’s for you, try and avoid rushing into it, as they do have some differences from their petrol alternatives. If it were me, these are the sort of things I’d be thinking about before committing to the electric world:

• Your licence category and whether the bike is actually legal for you to ride
• Your realistic daily mileage, not just the best-case range figure
• Where you’ll charge it at home, work or on longer journeys
• Battery warranty, battery health and replacement support
• Dealer support, parts availability and servicing options
• Insurance costs before you commit to buying
• Security requirements, including locks, storage and tracking options

Electric motorcycles, electric mopeds and electric scooters can look similar at first glance, but they are not always treated the same when it comes to speed, power, licence rules and how practical they are for different journeys.

As a simple way to think about it: if you mainly need short, low-speed town transport, an electric moped may be enough. If you want faster roads, stronger performance and a more motorcycle-like riding experience, an electric motorcycle or electric bike is likely to make more sense.

If you need...	Consider
Low-speed town riding, short errands or a simple commuter run	An electric moped or electric scooter
More speed, stronger acceleration or regular use on faster roads	An electric motorcycle or electric bike in the right licence category
Easy charging in a flat, office or shared living setup	A smaller electric moped, scooter or motorcycle with removable batteries

Electric motorcycles follow the same motorcycle licence categories as petrol bikes, but because they don’t have engine capacity in the usual sense, the important figures are normally power output, power-to-weight ratio and the bike’s official classification.

That means a small-looking electric motorcycle is not automatically learner-legal, and a larger-looking one is not automatically out of reach. For example, a motorcycle such as the Zero S 11kW may appear like a full-size bike rather than a typical learner machine, but its 11kW power output means it can be ridden by eligible CBT holders when the relevant UK requirements are met.

If you’re riding on a CBT, check the bike’s official figures carefully before buying or riding it. GOV.UK states that CBT allows you to ride a moped if you’re 16 or over, or a motorcycle up to 125cc and with a power output of up to 11kW if you’re 17 or over with L plates (or sometimes D-Plates in Wales).

For electric motorcycles, you’ll need to check the bike’s continuous or rated power output, power-to-weight ratio where relevant and official classification rather than relying on descriptions such as ‘urban’, ‘city-friendly’, or ‘125cc equivalent’. Some electric motorcycles can also quote a higher maximum or peak output for short bursts, so don’t use that figure alone when checking CBT, A1 or A2 suitability.

Licence	What it generally allows according to Gov.uk
CBT	A moped if you’re 16 or over, or a motorcycle up to 125cc and with a continuous/rated power output of up to 11kW if you’re 17 or over with L plates (or sometimes D-Plates in Wales). Always check the continuous/rated figure rather than only the maximum or peak output.
AM	2-wheeled or 3-wheeled mopeds with a maximum design speed over 25km/h (15.5mph) but not more than 45km/h (28mph). This can include electric vehicles, with batteries not counted in the max mass in running weight of 425kg for light quad bikes with the same speed restrictions.
A1	Light motorcycles with a continuous/rated power output up to 11kW and a power-to-weight ratio not more than 0.1kW/kg. This also includes motor tricycles with power output up to 15kW.
A2	Motorcycles with a continuous/rated power output up to 35kW and a power-to-weight ratio not more than 0.2kW/kg. The bike must also not be derived from a vehicle with more than double its power, and you can also ride A1 motorcycles.
Category A	Motorcycles with a power output more than 35kW or a power-to-weight ratio more than 0.2kW/kg as well as motor tricycles with a power output more than 15kW; you can also ride A1 and A2 motorcycles.

 

The AM category is usually where electric mopeds sit, especially models restricted to moped speeds. These can be a good fit for short urban journeys, but you still need to check the official classification, maximum design speed and licence requirements before riding.

A1 is the category many riders associate with learner-legal electric motorcycles and 125cc-equivalent bikes, but with electric, the key figure is the continuous or rated power output rather than engine size.

A2 opens the door to more powerful electric motorcycles, provided they meet the relevant power and power-to-weight limits. This is where checking the official continuous rating matters, as some electric bikes quote peak power figures that can look much higher.

Category A covers the most powerful electric motorcycles, including machines with performance well beyond learner or A2 limits. If you are looking at a high-output electric motorbike, this is the category you are most likely to need.

Another thing worth remembering is that electric motorcycles deliver power differently to petrol bikes. The instant torque from an electric motor means even a bike that looks relatively small can feel surprisingly quick, so don’t judge it purely on size or styling.

For a lot of riders, this is probably where an electric motorcycle makes the most sense, because if you’re using it for commuting to college, work or using it for local riding, a learner-legal electric bike can be easy to live with, especially if you can charge it at home.

Range is the big one, and it’s probably the first thing most people look at, because nobody wants to buy a bike and then spend every ride wondering if they’re going to make it home ...trust me, I've been there.

The issue is that quoted range and real-world range are not always the same thing, especially once you factor in cold weather, faster roads, hills, rider weight, luggage and how heavy-handed you are with the throttle, as all of those things can make a noticeable difference.

If your normal riding is a short commute or a local trip, you may be absolutely fine, but if you’re planning longer rides, regular dual-carriageway use, or anything that needs a lot of battery in reserve, consider the range carefully before committing.

As a rough example, a commuter doing 15 miles each way may find the bike fits well into a daily routine, especially with reliable charging at home or work, but someone with a longer commute on faster roads, planning weekend rides across the country or touring, will need to be much more careful about real-world range and charging stops.

Charging is another bit that sounds simple, but it depends massively on the bike and where you live. Some smaller electric motorcycles and scooters have removable batteries like the Horwin above; some charge from a normal socket, and some bikes may support faster charging like the Naxeon I AM Pro below, which features a Type 2 socket.

Aside from making sure the bike is legal to ride, charging is the thing I would personally pay most attention to, because if you’ve got a garage, driveway or somewhere sensible to plug in, electric ownership becomes a lot easier and stress-free, although if you park on the road or live in a flat, you’ll need to think a bit more carefully.

Also, don’t overlook office charging. If you’re commuting to work and there isn’t electric vehicle charging available, a removable battery could make a big difference, especially if home charging is difficult or you’ve got a longer commute that leaves you running low by the end of the journey.

Just don’t assume you can turn up with a battery and plug it in wherever you like, though, and always check with your employer first, as some workplaces will have their own rules around bringing and charging lithium-ion batteries indoors.

A removable battery can be a real bonus if you don’t have easy outdoor charging, as being able to take the battery indoors to charge can make the difference between the bike being practical and a complete pain.

That said, check how heavy it is, because some are fine, while others are the sort of thing you'll carry once and then start wondering why you didn't check the weight first.

A few even come with wheels and a telescopic handle, so you can pull them along like a suitcase, which sounds brilliant... unless the lift's broken on the way to your flat.

The first thing that usually surprises riders is how smooth they feel. On many electric bikes there’s no clutch, no normal gearbox and no engine noise in the traditional sense, so you twist the throttle and off you go.

Around town, that can be nice, as they’re quiet, easy and generally very simple to ride. If you’re used to changing gears, managing clutch control and listening to an engine, the simplicity takes some getting used to, but that’s part of the point.

The bit some riders will miss is the character, because gears, engine noise and a bit of mechanical feel are part of why a lot of us like bikes in the first place, so electric won’t be for everyone, although that doesn’t make it bad; it just makes it different!

One of the nice things about electric motorcycles (if you’re not mechanically minded, unlike me!) is that there is less oily stuff to worry about, so there are no engine oil changes, no spark plugs, and no exhaust system slowly turning horrible after a wet winter.

But they are not maintenance-free, as you’ve still got tyres, brakes, suspension, bearings, chains or belts on some bikes, software updates and general wear and tear to think about.

Battery health is something you should investigate before buying. Like any rechargeable battery, capacity can reduce over time, so check what warranty is included, what the warranty covers and what support is available if something does go wrong.

It’s also worth thinking about how the bike will be stored. Temperature, long periods without use and charging habits can all affect ownership, so be sure to check the manufacturer’s advice, and while you’re there, check or ask about the replacement cost, even if you hopefully never need to deal with it.

I’d also be checking battery warranty, dealer support and parts availability, because a cheap electric bike is not much of a bargain if getting parts for it later turns into a nightmare.

If you’re planning to ride an electric motorcycle on the road, you’ll need a minimum of third-party motorcycle insurance, whether it’s a small electric moped, a learner-legal electric motorcycle or something with a lot more shove.

As with petrol bikes, the cost can depend on the bike, your age, licence, riding experience, postcode, security, mileage and where it’s kept, while with electric bikes, the value of the battery and repair costs can also be worth thinking about.

The useful advice is to get a quote before you buy the bike, so insurance is part of the decision rather than a surprise after you’ve already picked one up.

Security is worth thinking about too, as electric motorcycles can contain valuable battery technology, so it makes sense to consider where the bike will be stored and what security measures may suit your situation.

Depending on the bike and where it’s kept, that could include good-quality locks, an immobiliser, a tracker or secure overnight storage. It may also be worth checking whether your insurer has any specific security expectations before you buy.

The Positives	The Compromises
Quiet and smooth	Charging needs planning
Simple to ride	Range can vary in real-world use
Less mechanical maintenance	Less traditional mechanical character
Great for commuting and local riding	Battery replacement and warranty considerations

 

This might sound obvious, but an electric motorcycle is still a motorcycle, and just because it’s quiet and easy to ride doesn’t mean you should treat it like a bicycle with a battery.

A proper helmet is the legal must-have, but I’d always recommend decent gloves, jacket, trousers and boots as well, because roads are still roads, and tarmac is still tarmac, whether the bike is petrol or electric.

Only if the bike’s continuous or rated power output is 11kW or below and displays L plates or sometimes D plates in Wales, and be careful not to confuse this with maximum or peak power, which may be higher for short bursts. Don’t rely on looks or ‘125cc equivalent’ wording alone; check the official power output and classification.

Not in the same way petrol motorcycles do, as electric motorcycles are usually understood by power output, battery size, and licence category rather than engine capacity.

It depends on the model, battery, riding style, weather, speed, hills and load. The advertised maximum range is useful, but your real-world range may be lower.

They can have fewer traditional engine maintenance jobs, but they still need tyres, brakes, suspension checks, general upkeep and considerations for how they’re stored and how long they’re stored for. Battery health and warranty support are also worth checking.

If you ride it on the road, you’ll need a minimum of third-party insurance.

Electric motorcycles won’t replace every petrol bike, and they won’t suit every rider, but that’s not really the point. They offer a different way of riding, and for the right person, that difference could be exactly what makes them appealing.

The main thing is to be honest about the riding you actually do. If you’ve got easy charging and most of your journeys are local, an electric motorcycle could make a lot of sense. If you’re regularly doing longer rides or relying on public charging, I’d think it through properly first.

And as always, before getting out on the road, make sure you’ve got the right cover in place, so be sure to get your Electric Motorbike & Moped Insurance quote with Lexham today!

Thanks for reading, ride safe, and we’ll catch you on the next one!